In May, our Latin America Specialist, Georgia, led a fabulous group of Tour Operators on a Fam Trip to Brazil with our local DMC partner, Ideia Tours.
Dreamliner Snoozes
The trip began in style with Air Europa not only providing free flights for the group from Gatwick to Sao Paulo, but by coming up trumps with an airport lounge too! We delightedly popped champers and toasted to a happy and successful Fam, full of anticipation for what lay ahead.
We flew aboard Air Europa’s new Dreamliner and one lucky person managed to secure an upgrade! The Dreamliner features an extra amount of oxygen and higher humidity in the cabin than regular long haul flights and all of us remarked on having had a very good nights’ sleep when we landed early doors in Sao Paulo.
The delights of Rio
Our trip itself began properly in Rio, so we hopped aboard a short haul flight and were soon touching down in Rio de Janeiro.
Driving to our hotels which were right across the road from the boardwalk of Copacabana Beach, we gawped out of the windows as blue sea, palm trees and white sandy beaches passed by in the glorious sunshine. With no rest for the wicked, bags dropped, flip flops on and off we went with our amazing guide to explore our immediate surroundings - but not before lunch!
We were taken to a churrascaria, which is quite simply an endless BBQ buffet - very heavy on the meat (and famously so) but also with incredibly delicious salads and side dishes (including sushi!). To say we stuffed our faces would be an understatement, the meat kept coming and the waiters kindly sliced and served us a variety of divine cuts of beef.
After lunch, we slowly meandered the boardwalk of Ipanema Beach, stopping to drink fresh coconut water from a street vendor and marvelling at how vibrant and alive the area was. The beach was packed with a melee of people, embracing life with caipirinhas, dancing to boom boxes, playing sports, swimming in the sea or chatting with friends. The boardwalk too was alive with vendors, from acai sellers to cocktail carts, everyone with huge smiles.
We even found an amazing makeshift beachside gym, complete with concrete-set weights of all types, pull up bars and weight benches.
Our next stop was the iconic Sugar Loaf Mountain and we headed off via fast track access to ascend the cable car and get to the top in time to watch the sun go down over Rio. It was a popular time to go and tourists and locals alike gathered to watch the sun dip majestically behind the hills in the distance, revealing Christ The Redeemer lit up in the night sky. Obviously a few of us had to get a caipirinha as a sundowner….this was to become a theme!
That evening we were treated to another slap up meal. It was at a fascinating and very funky little place which blended African influences with Brazilian cuisine. This type of cuisine is very popular in Bahia, a state in north-eastern Brazil, where the African influence is especially prominent. It was excellent to experience something very different, although some of the textures put a few of us off….the okra was not met well!
After an absolute smorgasbord of breakfast, we set off to see Rio’s next main attraction, Christ The Redeemer. This amazing statue is quite understandably a huge highlight of any visit to Brazil and you could see why, it was truly breathtaking.
A very well organised tram runs visitors up and down the hill on which the statue is perched. A tip - make sure you’re sitting facing uphill on the way up or you have to use all your strength not to fall forwards into the lap of someone opposite you! It’s quite a steep route!
From one iconic Brazilian site to another, we then went to find out more about Rio Carnival with a backstage tour of a Samba School in Samba City. This is absolutely worth a visit as it opens your eyes to what a beast Carnival is. None of us had any idea that this is a year long, continual operation that involves thousands of local people. Local children are given free dance lessons if they commit to attending and it’s a crucial part of the economy of Rio, giving employment to thousands of kids from the barrios and thus having a hugely positive impact on them.
Obviously we got to play dress up and while some looked quite dashing, others looked a bit like rejects for a role as the Ugly Sisters!
That night we experienced yet more Brazilian authenticity with a trip to a samba club in an area of Rio called Lapa. We shimmied the night away as we drank caipirinhas and marvelled at the band who played without stopping, their energy was infectious.
Something that surprised me about Rio was how safe it felt. It really had a wonderful, welcoming atmosphere and felt very relaxed. I think all of us would have liked to spend more time there but Paraty was calling.
Cachaca and Snorkels in Paraty
After an early morning run along Copacabana Beach boardwalk for some of us, we hopped into our transport and set off on the 4hr journey to Paraty. It was a beautiful journey that meandered along the coast as we headed south. Outside the windows, vast swathes of green passed by and every now and then we caught glimpses of the sea.
Paraty is absolutely stunning, with its whitewashed buildings and cobblestone streets. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site with a rich history from its colonial past. From gold to coffee to cachaca and then into tourism, Paraty has a vibrant and fascinating history and we were treated to a walking tour in which we learned all about its past.
Walking up and down the cobbled streets, we passed by artists, shops and ice cream vendors. Around every turn was another pretty building with brightly painted windows and coloured details. Bougainvillea lined the streets and mixed perfectly with the variety of colours, it really was a picturesque place.
Later in the day we were taken to a cachaca distillery, perched in the green hills that surround Paraty. It was fascinating to hear how cachaca was made but even more fascinating was the opportunity to sample the product! There were roughly 15 different types of cachaca to try and the majority were made up of flavoured cachaca such as chocolate or chilli. We were told how to correctly sample it - take a sip and let it swirl around your mouth and then swallow it, breathing in through your nose. If you open your mouth and breathe in, it makes it much more harsh.
The next day we went on a private schooner tour of the sea and islands off Paraty. Everyone enjoyed jumping off the boat, swimming, snorkelling (someone saw a turtle!) or using the SUP boards and kayak that came with the boat. The staff were amazing and whipped up an absolute feast in the tiny kitchen below deck.
Soon we had to bid farewell to picturesque Paraty and our lovely relaxing boat excursion, so once again we hopped into our transport and set off for another domestic flight, this time from Sao Paulo to Campo Grande.
Planes, Trains and Automobiles
There has to be an issue on a Fam right? Well now was our time. Very frustratingly, some of us had been bumped off the flight and were theoretically going to have to stay the night in Sao Paulo. This was not part of the plan and Erik, our amazing man from Ideia Tours, lept into action.
After a lot of back and forth, a huge amount of patience but many stern words from Erik, we were finally all allowed to board the flight. Huge cheers all round from us and many pats on the back of Erik, it really was a close call! But the drama didn’t end there, no sooner had we boarded the plane and all sat down when there was a medical emergency of another passenger! This resulted in at least a 2hr delay and the knock on effect was that we didn’t arrive into Campo Grande until about 2.30am (NB the passenger was fine by the way, they’d had a panic attack it seems). From here we still had to pick up our hire cars and drive the very short 5km to our hotel. Thankfully the car hire system was very quick and simple and soon we were at our hotel.
A not so bright but definitely early start saw us begin our self-drive phase of the trip. Driving in Brazil is really easy, the roads are pretty good and the self-drive kit that Ideia Tours provides is exceptionally detailed and useful. Onwards to Bonito!
Something that struck me as we drove through the countryside was just how enormous Brazil is. It’s not often that you travel to places which are evidently so vast. Looking out of the windows the views went on and on. It gave you an amazing awareness of the epic size of the country.
Getting to Bonito thankfully went without error and soon we were driving through the neat and tidy streets of this lovely little town. The first port of call was obviously lunch and yet again, we were blown away by the quality and quantity of the meal we had. Every restaurant we ate at was clearly keen to showcase their specialities and this place was no exception. We filled up on fish, beef and melted cheese. Once again we left with our waistbands groaning under the pressure of our extended bellies!
Our hotel lay just outside the town and was set in a lovely garden complex, complete with very noisy birds. The bar staff were quite entertaining and seemed a little stunned to have an influx of tourists. Bonito is not a hugely popular spot - although it should be as it's a very relaxed and friendly place.
That evening, we were guests of a famous local chef, Felipe Caran, at Casa do Joao. We were given a presentation in his private dining area and then enjoyed our meal in the sprawling and very popular restaurant.
Fishes, Macaws and a P45
The next day, we set off to enjoy an underwater escapade as we donned wetsuits and snorkels and jumped into the crystal clear waters of the Rio Da Prata. The tour begins with a safety briefing and then you walk, in your wetsuit, to an open back truck which takes you into the forest. I must say it’s the only time I have ever walked through woodland in a wetsuit!
What followed was a very leisurely drift downstream as we observed the fish of the river, carefully trying not to disturb the river bed which would obscure your vision with clouds of sand and silt. Every now and then it was lovely to stop and look up for birdlife.
The excursion ended with a fantastic lunch at the centre and the ability to chill out for an hour or so in the hammocks that were slung from the trees. We were joined at lunch by a rather feisty Amazon parrot who had no qualms at all about stealing food directly off our plates! And who knew that Brazil was famous for dulce de leche?! A huge metal bowl of thick and delicious dulce de leche was placed at the end of the buffet table and all of us enjoyed large spoonfuls of it for pudding.
Later that day, we trotted off to a sinkhole in which there was a scarlet macaw clay lick. A very well maintained circular track takes you around the sinkhole and two look outs enable you to get a good view of the macaws coming and going. They were beautiful birds and all of us got a bit mushy at the fact that they mate for life so, any solos you see flying around are typically juveniles who’ve not yet found a mate or adults whose partner has died (sob!).
That evening we were treated to yet another absolute feast in a newly opened and very smart restaurant (my favourite so far). Bonito really does do good food well!
After a cheese induced coma like sleep, we bid farewell to Bonito, but before we did we went on a waterfall walk at a place called Estancia Mimosa. This is a very pretty walk along immaculate trails which lead to around 10 different waterfalls and pools. The aim is to swim in them, relax and then continue walking to the next. Unfortunately, not only was our guide incredibly reluctant to lead us round this attraction, but a lot of the pools we visited had large groups already in them.
The most interesting element was the monkeys we saw in the trees but it was left to Erik to try and point them out and talk about them as the guide really did not care! We also loved the variety of birds at the main centre with the very quirky ‘backwards knee bird’ being my absolute favourite (not its real name!).
On our return back to the main centre, Erik gave the manager some feedback about our guide as we were all very unhappy with his attitude. Soon afterwards he was seen in his normal clothing leaving the premises! Don’t mess with the Fam Trip it would seem!
It was good to see Ideia taking control and dealing with this. As everyone working in tourism knows, sometimes things don't go exactly to plan, but a sign of a good DMC or tour operator is their ability to deal effectively and swiftly with any situations that arise. Full marks Ideia.
The Pantanal Awaits!
Farewell Bonito, Pantanal we’re coming for you! This was undoubtedly a much anticipated phase of everyone’s trip and we were excited to head into the Pantanal in search of jaguar and giant anteaters.
Soon we were turning off the main sealed road and driving approx. 40km over the orange dirt of an unpaved road on our way to the infamous Caiman Lodge. Breathtaking fields of green with white cows and tall trees zipped past as the sun started to set. We stopped to watch a small group of pantaneiros (cowboys) riding their horses down a track as a giant anteater meandered around in the distance. Frequent shrieks of ‘toucan’ were coming from my car as we spotted these birds flying as we drove.
Arriving in the dark gave an air of mystery to Caiman Lodge. We were welcomed by a group of very friendly staff members and escorted into the most stunning room, complete with gorgeous big sofas and tastefully done decor. Here we had a briefing about the lodge before being shown to our rooms to freshen up in time for dinner. The pathways to our rooms were lined with subtle lighting and there was a hush about the place. It felt very special.
Dinner was wood fired pizza and an amazing buffet salad and dessert selection.
Completely unexpected, the lodge had decided to include a half day’s tour with the Hyacinth Macaw Project and the Oncafari Jaguar Project in our stay. We were overjoyed!
Our morning started with Kefani from the Hyacinth Macaw Project and she was fantastic! So full of energy and passion for these beautiful birds that she had dedicated her life to.
Accompanied by Kefani, we set off in an open sided safari jeep to spot macaws and learn all about them. These fascinating birds were critically endangered but have been brought back from the brink thanks to the conservation efforts of this organisation.
That afternoon we met with Lucas from the Oncafari Jaguar Project, another passionate individual who took us out in the jeep to look for jaguar. Only some of the jaguar in the Pantanal have radio collars and for a good hour or so we drove round with Lucas standing at the front of the jeep, antenna in hand.
Soon enough, he picked up a faint sound and we set off in that direction and luckily for us, we came across a lone female called Gaia. We watched from a respectful distance as she slunk around the edge of a clump of trees. She was the most beautiful thing and all of us were absolutely overjoyed. We followed her for a bit before she padded off into thick undergrowth and out of our sight.
Jubilant, we returned to the lodge in darkness and were driven to a building just outside the main lodge where we were met with a beautifully laid out dining area. Two pantanieros were playing guitars and singing, a fire was roaring and dinner was ready.
We gleefully sat down and were treated to our second churrascaria of the trip! The meat was divine and we accompanied it with a generous helping of excellent red wine and whiled away the evening eating, drinking, chatting and in my case - dancing with the staff to the excellent live music!
The following day we received yet another surprise as the lodge included a morning’s horse riding activity for us.
That afternoon, we went out again in search of wildlife and this time, we spotted a giant anteater and a herd of peccaries. Peccaries are very similar to small wild boar and the sentinels make a loud clacking sound with their jaws to warn the herd of danger, it’s quite a unique sound to hear as they snuffle and shuffle around.
We were not expecting Caiman Lodge to do any better than it had already, but unbeknownst to us the best was yet to come! Returning in the dark once again, we were driven to a group of trees where a candle lit walkway led us into the most magical setting I think any of us had ever seen. It was jaw dropping. This secluded area had been turned into a candlelit dining space, with chunky wooden tables and benches with soft thick sheepskin hides to sit on. Each table was immaculately laid out with beautiful crockery and glassware sparkling in the candlelight. Around us were various little places to sit around wood fires, with hammocks or big chairs perfect for reclining in.
There was a beautifully appointed bar and a bustling BBQ area where the staff were busy cooking delicious cuts of meat and various vegetables. The setup was beyond impressive and we discovered that the staff team had started setting it all up at 7am and after it was finished they’d take it all down again!
Another night of eating, drinking and laughing and as this was our last one in the Pantanal and last proper night with Erik, we felt it only fitting to thank him profusely for all his hard work in shaping the most amazing Fam Trip ever. This came in the form of a song to the tune of Your Song by Elton John.
Bidding Farewell
The time had come to travel back to Sao Paulo but before we lept into our now very dusty hire cars, we were treated to one last safari in search of jaguar.
In the heat of the morning sun, we were blessed with a sighting of a female and a male. We sat in awe for at least an hour watching them. It was a magnificent sight. The male was huge, one of the biggest they have, weighing in at around 150kg. The female was very slight compared to him at a modest 60kg. We whispered our excitement in hushed tones until the pair slunk off into the dense undergrowth.
Filled with happiness, we bid an extremely grateful farewell to the amazing team of Caiman Lodge and set off to get our final domestic flight back from Campo Grande to Sao Paulo and then home to the UK.
Brazil, you blew us all away. The sights, the food, the people, the landscapes, the wildlife - just wow!
Tremendous and heartfelt thanks go to the amazing group of Tour Operators who joined me on this Fam Trip, it would not have been the laughter filled experience that it was without you, to all the partners in country who went above and beyond and of course to Erik, our orange t-shirt wearing hero from Ideia Tours who built and delivered the most memorable Fam Trip any of us could have asked for. Muito obrigada!
For an introduction to Ideia Tours, please contact georgia@theadventureconnection.com.
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